Arctic. June 2008

Like many trips that involve a sea voyage it takes you at least a day to get to your starting point. This trip was no exception.

We travelled by air from Heathrow to Oslo – stayed overnight, and then onwards to Longyearbyan the following day where before we boarded the boat for our journey north we exercised our cameras a little photographing Black Guillemots, Arctic Terns and a Snow Bunting or two.

When choosing to travel to the Arctic there are many decisions that have to be made. Travelling to this area is not one that you can do by yourself – you have to go in an organised group with a minimum number of approximately 45 persons. (There are a few trips available with smaller numbers but if you choose this option then you have to be prepared to spend a lot of money)

From experience it is more beneficial to go on a trip whereby one organisation charters the one boat. If, as was my experience, you have a trip with multiple groups within, you have a conflict of interest. The overall leader is attempting to please everyone and you may not be able to do what you thought you were going to be able to do. On the other hand, should you travel with Naturetrek and they charter the whole boat, then you know what you will be seeing and more importantly, what the objectives of the trip are and you can make sure beforehand what the photographic opportunities will be.

So we boarded and set sail in the late afternoon and travelled overnight to our first destination which was Kongsfjorden. The scenery was stunning with snow remaining on the three high peaks. We were treated to an aerial display by Northern Fulmars before our first zodiac trip to the Blomstrand peninsula where we encountered Long Tailed Skua, Arctic Terns and Long Tailed Duck. In the afternoon we visited Ny Alesund where we again encountered Arctic Terns, Glaucious Gulls, Long-tailed Duck and an Ivory Gull. Afterwhich we boarded the main boat again and sailed to view the end of the Kongsvegen (Kings Way) glacier which was stunning.

One of the main “problems” when travelling north at this time of year is when to sleep as there is 24 hours of “daylight”. These trips are not for the fainthearted as you are up for many hours as you can see wildlife at any time of the day.

The following day we moved on to Magdalenefjord seeing many seals and walrus on the way. From here we continued northwest towards the pack ice (so much for global warming!) It is however very exciting going through the ice flows with the thudding sound on the side of the bows. Next stop was Krossfjord with another stunning glacier partially hidden in atmospheric cloud – being up close in a zodiac you are able to fully appreciate the size of these glaciers – they are enormous.

The following day we progressed north sailing through some heavy pack ice and we were on “Polar Bear watch” – these bears can cover vast distances and it was not easy in spotting them however we finally came across (or did she come across us?) a single female bear who became very obliging to the cameras for about 45 minuets. You then realise that they are not white! The bear wandered around, stretching, jumping, and swam, finally strolling off away from us into the distance. What more could we ask for? – Well the day just got better with sightings of minke whale, fin whales, killer whales, harp seals (100+) and then the real treat of a Blue Whale – phew, they are massive. And then to finish the day, a humpback whale came into view.

Next day we woke to find ourselves in Poolepynten where we went ashore to observe a group of approx 80 walrus – these afforded us good views as some swam very close to us on the beach. From here we went onto Flintholmen whereby some of us got a little stuck in the mud. Good views of Long Tailed Duck, Eiders, Kittiwakes and a host of gulls.

Our final zodiac trip was to Skansbukta where we had excellent photographic opportunities with snow buntings, purple sandpiper, Black Guillemot, Arctic Tern, and again numerous gulls.

This was our last day so it was the long journey home from here – would I go again? - I think I may but like I mentioned at the beginning, I would select a more detailed trip rather than a general purpose one - An expensive learning curve maybe?