Namibia September 2008

Back to what I enjoy most – an independent trip whereby we can make our own decisions as to where we go and what we do.

We flew overnight into Windhoek – picked up the hirer vehicles and away we go. Like most African countries don’t be in a hurry when collecting your vehicle as the process can become “languid”

Namibia is one of the few African countries where you are able to drive yourself on safari this is due to the fact that you do not need (or allowed) to go off road so therefore you do not require a driver/guide. The roads are generally good – the main roads are tarmac with the Park roads a compressed scalpings which becomes very dusty so remember to get a vehicle which can be sealed as dust gets everywhere and be careful with the aircon as you do not want to drag the dust into your vehicle.

We set off north on our route to Etosha (Great White Plains) – stopping overnight just out side the park on our first night at Okonjima which is situated just before Anderson Gate.

Next morning we were up early and on our first game drive (these drives were in game vehicles and were part of the price for overnight accommodation) and we were instantly seeing Cheetah, lots of Pale Chanting Goshawks, Blackbacked Jackal, Lion, Giraffe, Kudu and Warthog. Also there was a hide whereby small birds frequently came to drink. Later in the day on our second game-drive we found Leopard and Cheetah on a fresh kill.

These trips are not for those that enjoy a long lie-in as the next day we were up and out by 5:30 on another game-drive – this time photographing Cheetah on Termite Mounds and Wild Dogs – also seeing Pale Chanting Goshawks sparring and a family of Black Backed Jackal we then returned for breakfast Afterwhich we were on the road again moving the short distance to Okaukuejo which is within the Etosha Park. There are three main Restcamps within the park and here there is accommodation, shops and restaurants, swimming facilities and fuel and each one has its own floodlit waterhole – These Restcamps are enclosed by walls and fencing and have two main gates – these gates are closed in the evening and opened again in the morning so your movements are limited but as the timings coincide with sunrise and sunset this is not a hardship.

Therefore when we were in these Restcamps our morning starts were dictated to us as the gates were not opened until 7 am – we then were able to drive around the area checking out the wildlife. The main areas of interest are the many waterholes which surround the camps and you are able to drive up to them very easily and pick what you think is the best spot – one thing to remember is that these areas can become busy if there is interesting activity so your first choice of parking for the best shots becomes your final one as it can become difficult to move to a better position at some of the most popular water holes.

Another thing to remember is that when you arrive at a waterhole it can be deserted and looking uninteresting but should you have the patience and wait then you can be rewarded. On many an occasion we were watching open space and the next minute a herd of elephants would walk in and have a splash and a drink and would then disappear so if your timing was just-so then you would turn up again at the water hole and think that nothing was happening. You end up driving from one water hole to another in an attempt to get the action without seeing too much.

Within the Park I found that there is a vast difference in habitat due to the white chalk/rocks and open plains. At Nebrownii water hole you see “white” Elephants – this is because the water at the waterhole is white due to the chalk and when they spray themselves with the water, they become “white”.

Most wildlife is within two miles of a waterhole and there are lots to see – groups of Springbok, some sheltering under trees – Giraffe – Elephants – Kudu – Grey Headed Sparrows – Lilac Breasted Rollers. The attraction is that you are able to photograph many species in many different settings so, if the lions are not in an acceptable place at one location, you can then move on around and photograph another group in a better setting.

If you use the National Park map, this lists all the waterholes both with water and also the dry ones – you then go to all of these and assess the merits of each one and then select the ones that you are going to return to. On your return to the Restcamp in the evening and after your meal, you can then visit the waterhole within the camp and view the wildlife all night long. These animals come in to drink and afford good views of situations that beforehand you were only able to watch on TV. On our first night a Leopard came in and stayed for 45 minutes – we were able to watch at close hand the “pecking order” and interaction with the other animals – on other nights we had a Rhino visit with her calf and the next evening there wer

In the following days we had close encounters with large groups of Burchells Zebra and Elephant – Also Oryx, Blackfaced Impala, Red Hartebeest, and Ostrich – then on and seeing a pride of Lions around a waterhole with the other animals not daring to go into drink – bearing in mind the intense heat, these Lions stopped other animals from using the water for over a day – the build up of animals looked impressive.

On the birding front we had good views of the Blacksmiths Plover, Yellow Billed Hornbill, Red Billed Hornbill, Cory Bustard and Pale Chanting Goshawk.

Later in the trip we moved onto Halali and also Namutoni – these again are similar to Okaukuejo in that they are an enclosed “Restcamps” and are run by Namibian Wildlife Resorts (NWR). It was good to visit all three Restcamps as this allowed us to spend more time at the 25+ waterholes within the area finding Damara Dik Dik, Steenbuck, Springbuck, Ground Squirrel, Banded Mongoose, Spotted Hyena, Blue Wildebeest and Eland.

Birdlife included species already noted above plus Cattle Egrets, Tawny Eagles, Egyptian Goose, Lappetfaced Vultures, Whitebacked Vultures, Greater Kestrel, Doublebanded Courser, Crowned Plover, European Bee-eater, Cape Turtle Dove, Palm Dove, Namaqua Dove, Secretary Bird, Glossy Starling, Blackwinged Stilt, Spotted Dikkop, Northern Korhaan, Helmeted Guineafowl, Grey Hornbill, Threebanded Plover and Eastern White Pelican.

After our two weeks “holiday” we were ready for a rest so we ventured back to Windhoek, dropped off the vehicles and slept on the plane home.

This was a very enjoyable and productive trip – also, due to the dry weather, there were very few biting insects around which is always good. The accommodation has also been upgraded recently and the rooms were very comfortable and clean throughout.